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kiwihonda004
Hawk
Hawk



Joined: Jul 14, 2012
Posts: 420
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2026 7:14 am Reply with quote Back to top

Hi Folks.
Decided to check front brakes on the cb that I restored a long time ago as they were not up to my standard.
Stripped calipers and found piston rubbers a little hard and pads worn.
Condition inside calipers were very clean so a quick clean new seals and lube up good to go.
I have been running DOT 5.0 brake fluid all these yrs and all the other rebuilds with no problems, I do recommend it

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tomk1960
Red CB1100F
Red CB1100F



Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Posts: 5029
Location: Worcester, MA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2026 1:21 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I've been using DOT5 for many years on all of my restorations. I've never had an issue and would never go back to DOT3 or DOT4.

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Powder coating services, specializing in all F components as well as brake system restoration.
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CB1123 RMII and WAY faster Kawasakis. 
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SteveG
Black CB900F
Black CB900F



Joined: Apr 07, 2006
Posts: 1626
Location: Skaneateles, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2026 2:44 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Do you start with all new seals, rubber parts and lines? Or in an old(er) system, what do you flush the system with?

Steve

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‘79 CB750(810)F, \'81 CB900(985)F, \'82 CB900(Going to be 1100)F, \'82 CBX, \'06 WeeStrom, ’18 Kawa Z900RS, \'22 CanAm Ryker Rally 
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Hondo57
CB1100F
CB1100F



Joined: Jun 20, 2014
Posts: 2385
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2026 9:04 pm Reply with quote Back to top

My experience is starting brand new if you are switching to Dot 5. If it isn't spotless it will eventually booger up. How do you completely clean it?...dont know?

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Greg 
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tomk1960
Red CB1100F
Red CB1100F



Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Posts: 5029
Location: Worcester, MA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2026 10:21 pm Reply with quote Back to top

SteveG wrote:
Do you start with all new seals, rubber parts and lines? Or in an old(er) system, what do you flush the system with?

Steve


Steve - you're better off to tear down, clean, rebuild with new seals, (calipers and masters) and replace the lines.

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Powder coating services, specializing in all F components as well as brake system restoration.
Dealer for Galfer, Spiegler, Apex, APE, 4-into-1, KOSO, Venhill, ProBoltUSA, and Cometic.
CB1123 RMII and WAY faster Kawasakis. 
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kiwihonda004
Hawk
Hawk



Joined: Jul 14, 2012
Posts: 420
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2026 4:45 am Reply with quote Back to top

Full strip down and replace all rubber components.
DOT 5 was used in the military for reasons that it sits around a lot which suits me.
Non corrosive and will not absorb water but if water gets in it will not breakdown,could cause a rust cavity in a section.
I have found a lot of mechanical parts personal and aligned staff cannot get their heads around this.

Peter.

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Hondo57
CB1100F
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Joined: Jun 20, 2014
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Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2026 7:04 am Reply with quote Back to top

You can also completely bleed and replace Dot 3 or 4 every year or two. That works also.

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Greg 
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Escape2012
MB-5
MB-5



Joined: May 24, 2025
Posts: 20
Location: Seattle, Wa

PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2026 1:11 am Reply with quote Back to top

This to me would be a great time to actually explain what the differences are and that there are actually 2 DOT 5's. The other is DOT5.1 and it isn't a silicone based like DOT5. And if the 2 are mixed it causes a lot of issues like having your seals break done and then no brakes. I for one would look at the 2 products and assume that they could be mixed as a lot of people would. Another issue is that DOT5 is not hydrophilic as DOT 3/4 are.

Just my seven cents...

Grant
 
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tomk1960
Red CB1100F
Red CB1100F



Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Posts: 5029
Location: Worcester, MA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2026 11:47 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Escape2012 wrote:
This to me would be a great time to actually explain what the differences are and that there are actually 2 DOT 5's. The other is DOT5.1 and it isn't a silicone based like DOT5. And if the 2 are mixed it causes a lot of issues like having your seals break done and then no brakes. I for one would look at the 2 products and assume that they could be mixed as a lot of people would. Another issue is that DOT5 is not hydrophilic as DOT 3/4 are.

Just my seven cents...

Grant


I would hope that anyone who pays attention to what they buy notices the different markings, i.e. 5 vs. 5.1. And just because they share the same first digit, common sense would suggest to NOT mix them. None of the bike builders I know would ever do that, just because they know better. As I have mentioned here over the years, and at this point, ad nauseam, I have been using it exclusively with all of my builds and restorations for at least a dozen years. I have NEVER seen an issue, and on at least one occasion during brake line upgrades, I tore into the calipers that had DOT5 running through them and the seals were still like new. I did that just to prove to myself and others that it doesn't eat into the seals like the conspiracy theorists would have you believe.

I have found that the DOT5 naysayers usually have zero experience with it, have never used it, and only base their unsubstantiated opinions on rumors and nonsense they've heard from other like-minded individuals with the same non-experience.

Use what you're comfortable using. I know that DOT5 works well for me and have tens of thousands of miles to show for it.

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Powder coating services, specializing in all F components as well as brake system restoration.
Dealer for Galfer, Spiegler, Apex, APE, 4-into-1, KOSO, Venhill, ProBoltUSA, and Cometic.
CB1123 RMII and WAY faster Kawasakis.

Last edited by tomk1960 on Mon Jul 06, 2026 12:55 pm; edited 2 times in total 
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kiwihonda004
Hawk
Hawk



Joined: Jul 14, 2012
Posts: 420
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2026 7:57 am Reply with quote Back to top

Very well put.
I have had the same discussions with these idiots

Thanks Tom.

Peter

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Hondo57
CB1100F
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Joined: Jun 20, 2014
Posts: 2385
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2026 1:39 am Reply with quote Back to top

I am running Dot 5 in my build bike brakes. Everything was brand new, thats why I used it. In my Blackbird I did a major rebuild on Calipers and Brakelines. There are a couple things in that brake system that cannot be adequately cleaned nor bought brand new. Namely the Proportioning valve and another type of pressure balance very small unit on the right front fork. Therefore I went with DOT 4. I switched my 900F to Dot 5 back in the 80's and after about 10 years things look really crystalized. I had to redo the entire system. Did not want to go through that again. I will keep up with the Bleeding on the DOT 4. It's not hard really. By the way. 4 and 5 seem equally good to me. The brakes are awesome both bikes.

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Greg 
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tomk1960
Red CB1100F
Red CB1100F



Joined: Nov 13, 2009
Posts: 5029
Location: Worcester, MA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2026 12:57 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Hondo57 wrote:
I am running Dot 5 in my build bike brakes. Everything was brand new, thats why I used it. In my Blackbird I did a major rebuild on Calipers and Brakelines. There are a couple things in that brake system that cannot be adequately cleaned nor bought brand new. Namely the Proportioning valve and another type of pressure balance very small unit on the right front fork. Therefore I went with DOT 4. I switched my 900F to Dot 5 back in the 80's and after about 10 years things look really crystalized. I had to redo the entire system. Did not want to go through that again. I will keep up with the Bleeding on the DOT 4. It's not hard really. By the way. 4 and 5 seem equally good to me. The brakes are awesome both bikes.


10 years between brake flushes is a VERY long time. DOT3 or DOt4 would also be trash after such a long time. DOT5 isn't indestructible or permanent - it needs to be flushed periodically as well. And I agree that flushing isn't difficult, but many bike owners never do it. I suggest either flushing periodically or trade the bike in for a new one when it's time to flush. I like that idea. Cool

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Powder coating services, specializing in all F components as well as brake system restoration.
Dealer for Galfer, Spiegler, Apex, APE, 4-into-1, KOSO, Venhill, ProBoltUSA, and Cometic.
CB1123 RMII and WAY faster Kawasakis. 
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Hondo57
CB1100F
CB1100F



Joined: Jun 20, 2014
Posts: 2385
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan

PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2026 2:15 am Reply with quote Back to top

Call it young, busy and thinking things will just last forever. Did I mention young?

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Greg 
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X7eater
Twinstar
Twinstar



Joined: Jul 24, 2020
Posts: 256
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2026 10:56 pm Reply with quote Back to top

I'm a huge fan of Dot 5 for our classic DOHC bikes. This is the best description of the pros/cons I've read:

https://www.v8register.net/articles/Brake%20fluids%20article%20R5%20Bob%20Owen%20230109.pdf
 
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kiwihonda004
Hawk
Hawk



Joined: Jul 14, 2012
Posts: 420
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2026 5:09 am Reply with quote Back to top

Great read on such a issue that has created good conversation.

Peter.

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genesound
Red CB1100F
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Joined: Feb 20, 2006
Posts: 11918
Location: Studio City, California

PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2026 5:00 pm Reply with quote Back to top

In everyday life, we've come to expect decimal numbers to work like software updates, where version 5.0 is just a newer, better version of 4.0, and 5.1 is a tiny tweak on top of that.

Brake fluid does not work this way. The numbers represent completely different chemical formulas, not a timeline of upgrades. For example, DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol-based fluids that can safely mix. However, DOT 5 is silicone-based and will ruin a system containing the others. Never assume a higher DOT number is just a 'newer version' of a lower one.

I think it's quite unfortunate that the regulatory deep state foisted that unconventional DOT 5.1 numbering of brake fluid on the public back in the 90s. Many people were already aware of the semantic versioning model of the x.y.z convention, and nowadays that schema is ubiquitous. This has resulted in much confusion and even damage to people who try to DIY their brake issues.

By the way, silicone fluid (DOT 5) holds onto microscopic air bubbles like soapy water, so bleeding becomes even more critical. If a rider puts it into a modern sportbike (or anything) with an ABS pump, the rapid pulsing foams the fluid instantly, leaving them with zero brakes in some situations. Glycol-based brake fluids (3, 4, 5.1) have low viscosity and surface tension, so the rapid mechanical hammering of the ABS pump passes through the liquid cleanly.

edit- I now see that the .pdf link that X7eater posted covers the abs dot5 issue, I hadn't looked at it yet when I posted. I am particularly amused by the issue presented starting at the top right column of page 4 regarding the mixing of glycol and silicone based brake fluids.

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What might have happened if that which did happen had not happened,
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