I'll give this thing a second chance again

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:42 am

I think I solved the "cunt won't start when hot" problem.

Test it tomorrow and go for a 5 day trip Thursday if all goes well.

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 4:37 pm

Ok, what was wrong? Also WTF is that super structure on the back of the bike for mate? You tie Dead body's to it or what??

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 7:30 pm

I have only ridden it 3 times since getting it back on the road cause when it is hot it won't crank over. It seemed like a flat battery but the battery is brand new. So I thought it must be a bad earth but I couldn't be bothered fixing it so I just parked the bike and that was about 6 weeks ago.

I decided yesterday to sort it out so I started by going through the connections from the battery to the earths and to the starter with the wire brush on the dremel. Pulled the starter apart to check and clean the brushes and commutator. So now every potential problem area from battery to started is clean. I didn't pull the solenoid apart ( probably can't, I'm not sure) but the wire posts had the cables removed and clean with brass wheel as well.

Took it for a ride and after about 30mins my mate stalled it and the bike wouldn't start again. We waited for 15mins and it nearly cranked over so we waited another 10min and just got the thing to fire on the slow turning starter.

When I got home I got a car battery and some jumper leads. The bike would only crank over one revolution until I hooked up the jumper leads and she cranked over fine. I tested this 3 times and then went and got another new battery.

I bought the best one they had which is a Deka so it is now in the bike and I will test it today. I hope it is not made in the same shitbox factory that my Redline battery was made. Any body want to buy a near new battery for a CB1100 it looks nice.

The rack on the back looks like a super structure because I have to move it up out of the way to get the seat off. It came with one of the bikes I bought so it bolts right up and will take a gear sack.

Oh yeah, how you doing Jim? Hopefully good mate or at least getting there.
Scott

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 7:42 pm

It says performamce batteries so you'd think it would be good. Even has red writting on it.

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:46 pm

When you get a 'Hot Start' crank the engine with the kill switch on. As the motor cranks turn the kill switch off. Your motor should start. No waiting for the cool down.

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:01 pm

It didn't even crank over when hot. With the igni tech ignition it needs to crank over a couple of times before it fires I think.

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:07 pm

Mine did not turn over when hot either. But turn the kill switch on and it would crank. So as it was cranking, turning the kill switch back to off would normally give a successful light off.

Posted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:45 pm

Mate excellent bit of info thankyou.

I'll keep that in mind for sure.

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:13 am

I'm doing good Scott. Not sure I will make enough to come watch at PI this year? Many Dr. bill's and the costs involved building my new bike. I'll for sure be there in '19 and should have the bike fully sorted and tested by PI.

Are you making sure the battery is fully charged before you start using hem?? A battery off the shelf will have a good charge but a lot of the times it won't be fully charged and won't charge full after it has been used. Just a thought as I know how patient you are. Haha

Peace, Jim

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 1:59 am

Yeah mate I have a CTek charger that I use before fitting the batt.

I ran out of time Sunday to test it, but hopefully after work today I will get time.

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 6:49 am

Tested the bike in the drive way. Ran it for 10 or so minutes then turned it off and tried to start it again. No luck, it sound like when you have a flat battery. It can just crank the engine over very slowly but no where near the speed it cranks when cold.

I left it for an hour and it fired right up. Cranked over at full speed as if it never had a problem. I let it warm up again and the same thing happened when I switched it off and tried to start it again. It hardly cranks over and each slow revelution you think will be the last. So I hooked up a large car battery with jumper leads and that didn't help. Changed to another large car battery and that didn't help either.

Bugger

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 7:21 am

I hooked the negative jumper lead to the negative terminal on the bike battery, but I hooked the positive jumper lead to the solenoid and hit the starter button.....no good. I then hooked the positive jumper lead to the other side of the solenoid taking the solenoid and the start button out of the equation and still it was no good.

I guess the next thing I could hook the negative jumper lead up to the engine block where the earth strap bolts on. But I can't see it being the earth cables.

Maybe I could try the starter motor out of the CB900?

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 9:31 am

Worth trying for sure, esp. if 900F is not having similar symptoms.

Maybe time for fresh brushes, bearings and a check of rotor and stator components too.

Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 3:47 pm

i'd get a feel turning her over by hand when cold - then try again hot - if for no other reason than to reason out any consideration of something nasty tighting up when hot - if you do get a feel for something then whip the plugs out ( without burning yir fingers) and get a proper feel- but hopefully its a sick starter

Posted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 12:14 am

sounds to me like the ignition timing got advanced some how. Move the pulse generator plate the same direction as the engine spins a little bit, nail it down again and try it then. It wont take much because there's no ratio in the setup. Move it one degree, your timing moves, one degree.