Oil bleed kit goodies

Posted: Sat Jan 14, 2017 5:19 pm

I got the AN3 bulkhead fitting from jegs, 9" line,sealing washers, and banjo fitting came out of the bikers choice (tucker rocky) catalog in the parts dept. Now if my welder buddy will get the filter housing done I'm in business.

Posted: Thu Jan 26, 2017 10:27 pm

I had the bung welded to the filter housing. Machined it flat and drilled/tapped the hole. I didn't have a .020" drill bit handy but I did have a ton of SBN mikuni pilot jets in my tool box. A #50 comes out to right at .020". Drilled and tapped the banjo bolt and installed jet. Ready to paint and install.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 1:21 pm

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of this Question

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 2:28 pm

Grumpy32 wrote:

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of this Question

This is one of Brent's oil mods Terry. It bleeds the air that collects in the filter housing after shut off. Without this when you first fire the motor up you have alot of frothy oil going straight to the bearings. Thats if you're lucky. I'm sure that sometimes under the right conditions you have a nice air bubble before you get oil to them.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 3:36 pm

After learning how much air these bikes can potentially pull in around the pickup plate as well as the oil pump sections I figured if I sealed those up I would be good to go. After talking to JJam i decided this was just cheap easy insurance. Roachy #3 rod bearing tells the story.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:01 pm

1100russ wrote:

Grumpy32 wrote:

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of this Question

This is one of Brent's oil mods Terry. It bleeds the air that collects in the filter housing after shut off. Without this when you first fire the motor up you have alot of frothy oil going straight to the bearings. Thats if you're lucky. I'm sure that sometimes under the right conditions you have a nice air bubble before you get oil to them.

Ok, Thanks Russ. So how does it work? Automatically, or manually each time you start the bike?

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2017 5:05 pm

Grumpy32 wrote:

1100russ wrote:

Grumpy32 wrote:

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the purpose of this Question

This is one of Brent's oil mods Terry. It bleeds the air that collects in the filter housing after shut off. Without this when you first fire the motor up you have alot of frothy oil going straight to the bearings. Thats if you're lucky. I'm sure that sometimes under the right conditions you have a nice air bubble before you get oil to them.

Ok, Thanks Russ. So how does it work? Automatically, or manually each time you start the bike?

Automatic. You route the hose back to the block (or pan) making sure it is below the oil level at start up.

Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2017 4:27 pm

Filter housing and oil pan bead blasted and hit with a fresh coat of paint. 3AN bulkhead fitting installed and ready to go back on the engine......as soon as I get around to reassembling it Laughing

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:57 am

Wouldn't this 'bleed off' oil pressure?

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 6:55 am

Yes it does......But with any air as well as this is why it is installed in this instance.
Now as for pressure concerns you have questioned remember the OEM oil pump has been designed with more volume and capacity than actually required so there is no negative effect. If you are wondering or doubtful about the oil pump event then consider and think about why you there is a relief valve. Every motorcycle, every auto utilising a plain bearing crank and using pressurised oil lubrication has one.
As long as the bleed hole chosen is no greater than 1mm (.040") then there is absolutely nothing to be concerned about.
In my own builds I use oil drillings (2-3 more) of the same size but elsewhere and I still enjoy one of the most successful and enduring systems that performs better than most.
Adopting any or all my oil modifications will only improve the durability of your engine. This applies to all from the occasionally used street bike or for an all out competition machine. There are no viable reasons not to do them other than being to lazy.

Captain

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 10:40 pm

Captain wrote:

Yes it does......But with any air as well as this is why it is installed in this instance.
Now as for pressure concerns you have questioned remember the OEM oil pump has been designed with more volume and capacity than actually required so there is no negative effect. If you are wondering or doubtful about the oil pump event then consider and think about why you there is a relief valve. Every motorcycle, every auto utilising a plain bearing crank and using pressurised oil lubrication has one.
As long as the bleed hole chosen is no greater than 1mm (.040") then there is absolutely nothing to be concerned about.
In my own builds I use oil drillings (2-3 more) of the same size but elsewhere and I still enjoy one of the most successful and enduring systems that performs better than most.
Adopting any or all my oil modifications will only improve the durability of your engine. This applies to all from the occasionally used street bike or for an all out competition machine. There are no viable reasons not to do them other than being to lazy.

Captain

I'm doing this one as well as hole in the Primary chain oiler for the A cam chain, am I missing anything?

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:57 pm

Not really as those are the main ones. I also do another that I don't talk much about because it's a little harder to do and you have to be very accurate where you drill. But a quick discription is a jet that directs oil at the junction (entry point) of the primary chain and the tensioner.. I do this using a #100 main jet (equal to a 1mm hole) and again it is taken from lower down in the oil filter but is a drilling in the cases. As a side note I also use this for oiling directly onto the gears on my Gear Drive conversion.
Do you need to do it ??? Yes and no depending on your perception, but if it is implemented it definitely helps reliability and improves durability just as all the other mods and improvements I have introduced have.

Normally I would post pictures at this point To show clearly how this is done but I'm presently in Australia and have been for the last two weeks but are returning home to NZ shortly. if anyone wants pictures then it can only be done once I return.

Captain

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 1:54 am

Would this be the reason why the oil drains out of the main oil gallery in the top case. I have noticed that when I was testing my engine on the bench I found that if left for a day or two it would only start to show oil pressure after a second five second burst on the starter with no plugs in or is this something else that I need to sort.

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 3:05 am

Needirection wrote:

Would this be the reason why the oil drains out of the main oil gallery in the top case. I have noticed that when I was testing my engine on the bench I found that if left for a day or two it would only start to show oil pressure after a second five second burst on the starter with no plugs in or is this something else that I need to sort.

No idea because I don't know what you have done. Anything I have talked about including the air bleed (correctly implemented) has a negligible affect on the speed of establishing oil pressure. The "ONLY" time I would expect a delay of up to 2-3sec (max) would be after a oil change and filter.
Your quoted figure of 5 sec with a operating engine even after a number of weeks is a concern and you need to check further.

Captain

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2017 4:33 am

Sorry Captain I am not questioning any of your mods I have actually taken your advice and drilled the hole in the primary chain oil feed to oil the cam chain. What I was asking could it be that if the oil filter housing has trapped air would it be the reason why the oil flows back out of the main gallery