HTS-2000 - Aluminum Repair

Hawk Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 439 Location: Chicago

I'm just wondering if anyone has had any experience with this product....

https://www.aluminumrepair.com/video-of-actual-repairs/

Eric

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 12:39 am

I haven't used it, but I plan to when the need arises. Very cool stuff! I bet you can use this to replace broken fins.

Hawk Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 439 Location: Chicago

tomk1960 wrote:

I haven't used it, but I plan to when the need arises. Very cool stuff! I bet you can use this to replace broken fins.

Tom,
My son Craig just ordered a few sticks from eBay and was planning to do what you just mentioned with the broken fins...
I'll keep you posted to his progress...

Eric

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 2:37 am

Interesting stuff if it works as they say. There could be a lot of uses for it....

CB1100F Joined: May 13, 2005 Posts: 3217 Location: NE OHIO

They say it's new , but I bought what I believe is the same thing about 18 - 20 years ago. Bought it at a flea market and the guy was welding pop cans like in the video . You can't use it with a propane torch but Map works OK . Used it on a water treatment plant settling tank . Had a aluminum dome that needed lights installed. Was easier to weld tabs than drill and bolt tabs without loosing any chips into the bottom of the tank

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 3:51 am

It used to be called "Alumi Weld", I still have some. I couldn't get it to work like advertised, but I have used it to repair aluminum race car spoilers before I got my tig welder.

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:57 pm

I have that stuff. It is good, but quite tricky to use. When heating the object you need to be VERY careful not to warm the part too much. Specially with acetylene torch it is very easy. Oxidation layer on top works as insulator and aluminium inside the part will melt before oxidation layer. At some point the part just runs away as the oxidation layer melts. At that point it is too late.

What comes to fixing the fins, I could not make it work. I found it extremely difficult to get block warm enough without melting some fin on the side. I tried this on some scrap block and based on my experience did not have the guts to try on 1100 block. Decided to use pro TIG welder... Maybe some day later.

I tried it also on some scrap engine cover. It worked pretty well, it was easy to reach right temperature and apply that stuff. It is easy to work with, grind, driff etc.

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 8:29 pm

Best thing I have seen it weld is soft drink cans, nice clean ally that is thin, never seen any success on anything else

Posted: Mon Jan 18, 2016 9:06 pm

norm wrote:

Best thing I have seen it weld is soft drink cans, nice clean ally that is thin, never seen any success on anything else

+1. Trying on on a stock rearset plate, I couldn't get it to flow right using MAP gas. You have to be extremely careful in heating the part as I've found to get the part heated to the right temperature, the part itself tended to melt at the temperature needed to melt the aluminum rod. Works great on soda cans though. I suppose like anything, you have to practise, practise and practice.

Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2016 8:09 pm

metu71 wrote:

I have that stuff. It is good, but quite tricky to use. When heating the object you need to be VERY careful not to warm the part too much. Specially with acetylene torch it is very easy. Oxidation layer on top works as insulator and aluminium inside the part will melt before oxidation layer. At some point the part just runs away as the oxidation layer melts. At that point it is too late.

What comes to fixing the fins, I could not make it work. I found it extremely difficult to get block warm enough without melting some fin on the side. I tried this on some scrap block and based on my experience did not have the guts to try on 1100 block. Decided to use pro TIG welder... Maybe some day later.

I tried it also on some scrap engine cover. It worked pretty well, it was easy to reach right temperature and apply that stuff. It is easy to work with, grind, driff etc.

Yep, this. /\

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:01 pm

This stuff is available from BOC and other welding supply places at a fraction of the cost of on line suppliers. I bought 2 lbs about 10 years ago and still have some left. The key is to get yourself a stainless steel welder's brush and don't use it for anything but aluminum soldering. Keep brushing the surface that you're heating as you go. It has to be clean, clean, clean. When it cools the solder is actually harder than most aluminum alloys and machines quite well.

Hawk Joined: Jan 10, 2012 Posts: 439 Location: Chicago

Oldtech wrote:

This stuff is available from BOC and other welding supply places at a fraction of the cost of on line suppliers. I bought 2 lbs about 10 years ago and still have some left. The key is to get yourself a stainless steel welder's brush and don't use it for anything but aluminum soldering. Keep brushing the surface that you're heating as you go. It has to be clean, clean, clean. When it cools the solder is actually harder than most aluminum alloys and machines quite well.

Great, Thanks Oldtech for that info...

E

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:05 pm

See this thread ... http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=52972&highlight=

Cojonesdeloro (Daz) used Lumiweld which I think is similar to do hydraulic clutch conversions ...

Regards,

Max

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 1:38 am

Aluminum needs to be super clean for any type of welding. An old trick is to heat it with a sooty torch flame then re-adjust the flame to burn off the black soot. This plus a good brass brush in a power tool followed by some light preheating and you might get something half decent. These stick rods work much better with map gas as it's hotter than propane.