which brand of alternator parts do you use

Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 12:18 am

I got it from a shop called Jacar

I think I saw the same on ebay

Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2015 3:17 am

Cool, I just bought one of these for my adjustable 12v 30a power supply,
it would work on a bike too, looks about like yours Scott:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141474964283

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:39 pm

That's the one mate.

I decided to go away for a few days to a mates place so I haven't looked at the charging system yet. It did hit 15.1V for a while on the way there which I guess may not be too good for the battery but I'm not sure what a battery can take until it is too much charge.

Yesterday on the way home the bike was dropping 2 cyl at around 100km/hr but seemed fine at lower speeds. I was still about 100kms from home and hung over like a barstard, so rather than stopping to take a look I limped the bike home and parked it

Posted: Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:59 pm

Hahahahaha now that's funny....you limped home in more ways than one...

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 2:53 am

I wouldn't worry too much about 15.1 volt, that is 15 basically and all cars pretty much charge up to 15 nowadays and battery still the same. The old days of 13.6 or so charging are gone with all the electronics on stuff now. Most stuff now anything under 14.0 has something wrong with it.

Just watch the battery water level, these always burned the water out a bit quick anyway.

Over 15.5, yeah, I'd worry.

Posted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 11:03 pm

What brand alternator parts do I use? Don't buy stators from Rick's Electric. They are 2 for 2 in defectiveness. First, DOA out of the box and the second shorted out after 50 miles. The first exchange was hassle-free but I know the second will be problematic.

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 12:08 am

Scott, did my head for probably 12 months with a misfire on mine at 100kph, fine above and fine below, cut out connectors and soldered wires, igniters,pulse coils,relay mod on the coils, drove me nuts. Sonic put me onto closing up the pulse coil gap and that fixed it. Sorry I can't remember what I closed them up to but I had to file the slots a bit to get it down to I think he said 10 thou, factory was 15?

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:41 am

Excellent tip thanks Norm

I still haven't done the coil relay thing yet, but I keep meaning to.

I did replace the coils with genuine Honda ones a year or two ago and I do have new pulse generators on the shelf waiting to go on.

Seems like I better pull my finger out and get this thing sorted. We have a ride to an all Italian day coming up and I would rather ride a Honda

Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:53 am

Scott I'm, heading to the "Blessing of the Bikes" this Sat run by "The Inline 4 Cafe" at Mirboo North so I have to ride an inline 4 to that

Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 11:32 pm

Closer is better on the pulsers, the closer makes the impulse stronger. Of course you can't make contact. Works the same on any magnetic impulse proximity sensor out there. I used to do it on the chainsaw as well as the AMC electronic ignition I made up way back out of Mopar and Accel parts. Back then there was no electronic igniton for AMCs.

Just converted a Homelite saw from points to electronic using Poulan saw parts, the butchery goes on. I HATE points.

Posted: Thu Oct 08, 2015 1:35 am

The gap on the pulsers also affects the dwell: =>http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=223366&highlight=dwell#223366

In this 2007 discussion about using the stock pulsers with GM HEI ignition, loudhvx wrote:

...The problem is that the gap also affects dwell. With a .012" (.3mm) gap, the dwell was long on my test rig. With the Cavalier coils, this could really heat the modules and soak up a lot of power from the charging system. There's no way to tell for sure except to see the dwell on an o-scope. (As mentioned earlier, a dwell-meter is inaccurate for a current-limiting module.) ...

We've had numerous members at the Custom site adjust their pulser gaps down to .012" successfully using the stock ignitions however. It may help to make up for some of the aging capacitors and other components in the stock ignitions.

Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2015 12:15 am

How long is 'long'?

He does not say.

ALL electronic ignitions stretch dwell out much longer, he could just have been reading that. Dwell with no cam ramps and points to worry about floating simply becomes a switch open to fire coil and immediately switch closed again to dwell. The only timing requirement would be to make sure the two switchings are not confused. With quick resetting electronics that could be a few thousands of a second for the field to collapse.

I've never heard of an electronic ignition of any sort that dwell wasn't long on. It's a major selling point of the switch.

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 1:02 am

Lou was saying that adjusting the stock pulser gap narrower made the HEI dwell longer, so that the GM coils and HEI might start to heat up. They do run much lower resistance coils than the stock system, more like CDI systems. I've never heard of that being a problem on the stock systems though.

I received the round volt gauge (posted above) today. It's not terribly accurate against a Fluke, but it's accurate enough for use as a charging indicator for riding. The error goes from about .1v to .2v depending. The error is not consistently linear, sometimes it's more, then it's less, then more again as you continue to increase the voltage.

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 4:46 am

To be expected but far better than nothing..............

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 5:05 am

Sooo the consensus is, use OEM rotor?

Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2015 6:30 am

I haven't been bowled over by any aftermarket rotors that I've heard of. Some just flat fall apart. From what I can tell, finding a good rewinder is about the best way to go.

Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:33 am

The OEM windings are glued layer to layer all the way down to the core, I understand a lot of rewinders do not do that. They only glue the outside of the whole coil.

Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 8:03 pm

AMC49 wrote:

The OEM windings are glued layer to layer all the way down to the core, I understand a lot of rewinders do not do that. They only glue the outside of the whole coil.

So you ask them how they do it before handing over your part.
If they only glue the outside, instruct them to glue it all the way and be prepared to pay extra.
Your part, your machine, your money.

Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 1:58 am

So we'd like to think..........but then after that comes the real world. Are you prepared to strip it back down to verify they have done it? Don't own a Volkswagen, do you?

You begin to see the problem.............

Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 7:37 pm

AMC49 wrote:

So we'd like to think..........but then after that comes the real world. Are you prepared to strip it back down to verify they have done it? Don't own a Volkswagen, do you?

You begin to see the problem.............

Well I guess you'd have to trust them to do the job to your specification.

Nope, no VW Very Happy

We've got a Mini and a Peugeot 406 turbo diesel saloon Laughing