My titanium obsession

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 11:23 pm

It all started with making a titanium axle.

And I keep adding more and more.

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:19 am

I'm fairly convinced the stock wheels and rotors are cast from lead. Why not trash those in favor of lighter items instead?

Both of my CBR wheels with tires weigh less than one of the old wheels, and those are heavy by today's standards!

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:24 am

SEBSPEED wrote:

I'm fairly convinced the stock wheels and rotors are cast from lead. Why not trash those in favor of lighter items instead?

Both of my CBR wheels with tires weigh less than one of the old wheels, and those are heavy by today's standards!

Yeah, I know. But it's not a race bike so I'm trying to keep a period correct look.

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:51 am

I like the swing arm. I have the same one, but made of steel. it also only has one bolt per adjuster.

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 12:20 pm

That is one very, very nice F.

Steve

Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 4:28 pm

Thanks Steve. It's been labor of love. I still have a long way to go to get it where I want it.

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:55 pm

Ti axle you say?? How hard is it to get a good finish on that stuff? Did you use a grinder on the lathe?
I haven't tried machining any Ti yet.

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 7:01 pm

I use carbide cutting tools on the lathe and grade 5 titanium finishes really well. No grinding or polishing is required. Here's one of my latest parts; a rear footpeg bushing and washer.

Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 7:03 pm

BTW, it's much easier to work with than stainless.

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 4:15 am

Nice. I need to buy some and try it.

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 4:24 am

Try drilling a hole in it or even better, tapping it !!!!

Captain

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 6:01 pm

Yes, drilling a hole can be challenging. I always use coolant to reduce the heat buildup and subsequent work hardening. Tapping is even more challenging. There are titanium specific taps but I was able to tap the axle using a 3 flute HSS tap.

Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 7:11 pm

headless wrote:

Yes, drilling a hole can be challenging. I always use coolant to reduce the heat buildup and subsequent work hardening. Tapping is even more challenging. There are titanium specific taps but I was able to tap the axle using a 3 flute HSS tap.

That is impressive......... beerchug

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 1:37 am

I drilled some safety wire holes today and didn't break the 1/16" drill bit. Cool

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:18 am

the re birth of a dying technique - "je ne sais quoi" Smile

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 7:16 pm

headless wrote:

I drilled some safety wire holes today and didn't break the 1/16" drill bit. Cool

Cary are you making the bolts also or are they from ProBolt?

Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 7:57 pm

I'm not making them. Some are from proBolt, but most are sourced elsewhere. I buy a lot off eBay from China or the UK and some are from TitanClassics.com.

Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 10:21 pm

I added titanium tank hold down hardware today.

Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 9:58 pm

More titanium bling. Cool

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 8:50 am

nice - had a go at tapping 12mm grade 6 using a cheap tungsten alloy split die - great! - nicer thread than the same die on carbon steel or SS but the ti has its own technique
you need a good clamp for the stock - ideally a 3 or 4 jaw - it seems i'm partially pressure forming the thread - kinda like a rolled thread
1st - grind a nice lead in taper to match that of the die to give an easy thread start
2nd - I use a cutting paste + light oil lub
3rd - x 3 pass's with the die - hence a split die so you can adjust the diameter of cut
4th - its tough work! - I need to use a 12" die holder for leverage - hence also the need for a good clamp - it kinda goes like - wind up the elastic spring in the ti then you get a shear - back off half turn and repeat easing fwd, take your time and feel for any heat build up ( it feels like it wants to bind up and weld together versus cut so avoid heat

but - end result is good and the die is still sharp ( i've done x 4 with the same die)
5th - I found the thread high point was a larger diameter than the stock I started with ( part to do with the pressure forming) so I take the peak off with a diamond sharping file - just a few thou, if I don't do this - its sharp enough to cut the nut thread

Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 5:39 pm

Nice work. I'll have to give that a try.

Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 3:04 am

I made a front wheel spacer today and saved a whopping 17 grams of unsprung weight.

The front axle is now on the drawing board.

CB1100F Joined: Feb 17, 2009 Posts: 2110 Location: Oz

headless wrote:

I made a front wheel spacer today and saved a whopping 17 grams of unsprung weight.

Aluminium ones would be 40% lighter still....just sayin'

Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 3:16 am

good point. Wink

Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:56 pm

I just added titanium sprocket bolts and washer.

Posted: Sun Dec 25, 2016 1:30 am

I purchased a lathe milling attachment and made a front axle.

Posted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 7:29 pm

I made 2 (M10x284 & M10x330) engine mounting bolts. Just a few more items and I'll be done.

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:08 am

Except for mine. I'd like the motor mount bolts and axles and a swingafrm pivot bolt to my specs. Just let me know Cary and I'll send the info.

Looks NICE BTW.

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 2:28 pm

OK I'm outta my depth here but would like to learn even at this late date. Often my queries don't get answered because they are so ignorant.

How can TI be both easy to machine and difficult to drill?

Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 4:33 pm

Grade 5 titanium comes in it's annealed state so it is fairly easy to machine if you use single point tools and keep the feed and speed down. It is twice as elastic as steel so it will tend to deflect when cut. It also doesn't transfer heat as readily so heat concentrates at the cutting surface and can get quite hot. Unless the heat is controlled by coolant the subsequent work hardening can result in dull tools & chipped or deformed surfaces. Unless you have thru drill coolant then drilling is a slow and difficult process. I peck drill to keep the chip load down and flood with coolant using a squeeze bottle.